Montr?al :: In a Perfect World...

Of course it's the ultimate clich?; saying that Montr?al is the perfect mix of America and Europe. I hate to describe Montr?al as "Europe-lite," mostly because that makes it sound like it's the younger, not-quite-as-sophisticated brother, but also because Montr?al has a distinct personality all her own. Saying the Montr?al is the perfect combination of America and Europe however, is the easiest (and in my opinion, fairly accurate) way to convey the feeling of being in and enjoying this incredible, cosmopolitan, exciting city to the north.

The downside of putting a city in a little box like that of course, is that when you describe a fabulously diverse, eclectic, and vibrant city in one short phrase, (i.e. "The best of both worlds"), you don't convey all of the wonderful things that gives the city life and makes it what it is. For many Americans however, that simple explanation tells so much, and puts them at ease about the possibility of traveling there.

If you're worried about "the language thing," don't be. Nearly everyone in Montr?al speaks English, and without fail anyone you interact with in the tourism, entertainment or retail areas will be able to communicate with you just fine. However, I do encourage you to ask a few people to speak French to you, especially if it's late at night, you're in a dark bar, or you're just feeling "in the mood." As a tourist, English will be spoken anywhere you go, and unlike in Paris, it'll be spoken sans attitude.

I'm hoping that by sharing my experience- and some of my favorite places- in one of my favorite cities in the world, I'll be able to give you at least a glimmer of insight into what makes this city so fabulous, so fun, and so unique!

Getting There

If you're on the east coast, getting to Montr?al is super easy via Air Canada. As an airline, they also seem to be much friendlier than most American carriers; for me it was a preview of things to come- the warm, welcoming, friendly (and cute!) citizens of Montr?al. Flights from New York, Boston, Philadelphia, D.C. and Providence are all short and sweet. It's almost as easy from any other major US city; there are direct flights from nearly every major city in the US. Alternatively, if you're into driving it's "not so far" from the New England/New York area, at least according to my boyfriend. Myself? I'll take snatchy airport security and an in-flight cocktail over 5-7 hours in the car any day.

The City

While I wouldn't go quite as far as some people do in describing Montr?al as "going to Paris without leaving North America," it definitely has a European feel in both style (architecture, fashion, design) and culture (food, arts, and general lifestyle). The people of Montr?al are also beautiful, in that they have the same joie de vivre of the Parisians, albeit without the snotty attitude- and that's coming from someone who loves Paris.

Montr?al is an easy city to get around in, year round. The fabulously easy-to-use subway system combined with an underground "labyrinth" of passageways (allowing you to stay cool in the summer and warm in the winter) makes getting from one side of the city to the other a breeze, without having to spend a fortune on cabs. As long as the weather's nice however, I'd recommend doing as much walking as you can outdoors- Montr?al's architecture, parks and city as a whole are beautiful and deserve to be explored.

Gay Life

Montr?al is known for its diversity, inclusiveness, and forward-thinking, progressive atmosphere; after all, Canada was one of the first countries to allow gay marriage, and Montr?al has always been at the forefront of progress in Canada. From what I experienced- and from talking to locals- being gay in Montr?al is rarely an issue; most people live openly and comfortably.

Montr?al's gay community is one of the largest, most diverse and bustling gayborhoods in the world. Full of gay shops, bars, restaurants, caf?s, and hot, hot men and women, "The Village" is a great place to shop, eat, drink, and just walk around. In fact, it's the perfect place to start, continue, and end your evening. Maybe it was the time of the year that I visited (PRIDE and the Outgames), but it seemed like you couldn't shake your ass without banging up against at least half a dozen hotties- and I certainly wasn't complaining.

What sets the Village apart from other city's gayborhoods is not just the wild nightlife and number of fabulous bars, restaurants and clubs, but also the spectacular events and thriving cultural scene. Numerous galleries, antique shops and entertainment venues share the neighborhood with the traditional gay establishments, adding to the diversity and often-celebratory atmosphere. To find out what's going on in the Village, stop by the Village Tourist Information Centre, just steps away from the Beaudy m?tro stop.

DIVERS/CIT

If you love big celebrations featuring super friendly men and women in little clothing, dancing, food, and fun, you're in luck: right now is the perfect time to plan your summer vacation to Montr?al. From August 1st - 5th, the "cit?" comes alive in all its rainbow glory for DIVERS/CIT?, Montr?al's celebration of LGBT Pride.

As someone who's experienced Pride in Montr?al, I highly recommend it. Known for its size and diversity of activities- including fabulous food, great music, dancing, and beautiful people- it's simply one of the best in the world. For more information on the DIVERS/CIT? pride celebration, go to www.diverscite.org

SLEEP

Sheraton Le Centre

Located literally in the heart of downtown Montr?al, Le Centre Sheraton is steps away from great shopping, incredible dining, and world-class (Broadway style) entertainment. It's also a short m?tro ride from the Village, and provides easy access to the rest of the city.

With their famous "Sweet Sleeper" bed, you may not want to leave your room, but be sure to at least go downstairs to check out both the new Bistro Le Boulevard restaurant and the trendy- and popular- Le Caf? Bar; both are highly recommended.

Of course the Sheraton boasts all the amenities you'd expect- high speed internet, WiFi in public areas, a large fitness center, sauna, and a beautiful indoor pool. For travelers looking for a great hotel at a reasonable rate (you can often get rooms for less than $100 Canadian), the Sheraton Le Centre is absolutely the best choice; you definitely won't be disappointed.

Fairmont Le Reine Elizabeth

If you're looking for high-end traditional luxury (and want to stay at the same hotel that HRH Queen Elizabeth II stays when she's in town on official visits), the Fairmont Le Reine Elizabeth is perfection. Just down the street from the Sheraton, this grand old hotel is known for its sumptuous d?cor, incredible service and high profile clientele.

Le Reine Elizabeth is everything you'd expect from a Fairmont, with a few little European touches that only add to its appeal. The rooms are beautiful- luxurious without being gaudy- and if you can swing a suite, I highly recommend it. Dining at one of their three restaurants (with the Beaver Club topping the list for obvious reasons) is a must, as is afternoon tea in the Tea Room or lobby, served Weds-Sun from 2:30-6pm.

Rooms at the Le Reine Elizabeth are surprisingly reasonable, considering it's a Fairmont; they start at about $150 Canadian; suites start from about $350.

Another beautiful hotel to consider is the Chateau Versailles. I stayed there when I went to Montr?al on a last-minute weekend trip and had a wonderful experience. This AAA three-diamond hotel is located in a beautiful renovated historic home in the heart of the city, and it's decorated in a classic style, yet has all the modern touches you'd expect and require.

Eat

Like Europe, Montr?al is a food lover's paradise; cafes, restaurants and bistros abound, with everything from local and regional favorites to ethnic food from all over the globe.

Boris Bistro in Old Montr?al is one of my favorites both because of its location in the heart of the city's historic quarter, and because it has perhaps the most incredible semi-hidden terrace that's perfect for al fresco dining. Of course the fantastic food and gorgeous waiter didn't hurt either...

The Village is full of fabulous dining options, including La Piazetta (pizza with a Mediterranean influence), Club Sandwich (a huge array of sandwiches and the best fries in town- plus they're open 24 hours), Restaurant Sasha (tapas), Miyako (incredible modern Japanese), and my favorite (for obvious reasons), Restaurant La Diva (Italian). Ask your concierge for addresses and reservations if required, or simply head to the Village and keep your eyes open!

For the best bagels outside of New York (as well as smoked meat, etc.), head over to Schwartz's Deli, an institution in Montr?al since 1928. Come early if you want the best selection; they sell out every day.

When it comes to breakfast, no one beats Le Toaster (950 Roy St. E.). This neighborhood restaurant is known for their plates piled high with fluffy omelets, golden waffles and fabulous crepes, as well as their relaxed friendly service.

Drink & Dance

You can't throw a boa in the Village without hitting at least a few bars or clubs. Every block seems to have half a dozen, and most of them have outdoor patios or terraces that sometimes seem to connect to neighboring establishments, at times turning the main street (Sainte-Catherine) into one big street party.

Bars and clubs can get a bit wild in Montr?al (compared to the states), so come ready to make some friends and have some fun! Many are multi-floor complexes with bars often on the street level, and one, two, or three levels of dancing above. (All street numbers are for addresses on rue Saint-Catherine unless otherwise noted.)

The most popular hot spots are Le Stud (1812), Sky Pub (1474) and Le Drugstore (1360); Meow Mix (4848 Blvd. Saint-Laurent) is the Village's popular lesbian bar. If you're looking for dancers (read: strippers that take it all off)- something Montr?al is famous for- head to Stock Bar, (1171) Campus (1111), or Adonis (1681) but be prepared: the action here is much hotter than in the states! (Why do you think Montr?al is so popular?)

Leather fans should definitely check out Aigle Noir (Black Eagle, 1315) and Stud (1812), and for the best drag shows, head to Cabaret Mado (1115).

Play

If the club has got you all hot and bothered- and you're a man- you're in luck. Montr?al has some of the best men's clubs in the world. Club Tools is a bar, club and "play room" all wrapped into one. For more "focused" action, head to Le Zone (1584)...

DO

Saute Moutons

Montr?al has a million things to do- attractions, museums, shopping- the list is way too long to mention them all. My suggestion for visitors is to check out www.tourisme-montreal.org/gay for a complete list of gay friendly hotels and restaurants, current events and activities, and a complete list of everything from shopping, attractions and more. So although I can't possibly share everything I've done, these are my favorites:

With all that the city has to offer, you'd think that it would be impossible to pick one favorite thing, and yet, whenever I find out that a friend (or even someone sitting next to me at a restaurant) is going to Montr?al, there's one thing that I always tell them that they must do no matter what: ride the Lachine Rapids with Saute-Moutons.

You see, Montr?al sits on a big, beautiful river- the St. Lawrence- and in one small area, the river narrows and also becomes shallower, with rocky formations below the surface of the water. The result? Incredibly fast-moving, breathtaking rapids. Add a high-speed jet boat filled with about 50 people to the mix and you've got yourself a party!

Normally I don't like to get wet (the hair), but this was literally the most fun I've had in years. The things these guys can do with a boat is incredible, and when I wasn't being pummeled with hundreds of gallons of water, I was laughing my ass off. Trust me when I say this is one thing that you can't pass up when you're in Montr?al.

International Flora Montr?al

Whether or not you're into gardening, if you visit Montr?al during the summer, you definitely want to make a point to see the International Flora Montr?al show. Each year, dozens of designers- both landscape and otherwise- get together and create their own small garden exhibits, showcasing their incredible talent and vision- not to mention the diversity of plants and gardening styles. From city gardens to slope gardens, from gardens that nurture the soul to those that shock the senses, they're all here. Most are amazingly modern, and they're all incredible. The experience is similar to visiting a great museum, only outdoors!

This year's show runs from June 29th - September 3rd. More information is available at www.floraMontr?al.ca

La Ronde

Fans of roller coasters will be in heaven in Montr?al- after being bought from the city by Six Flags, La Ronde- Montr?al's famous theme park- got a king-sized makeover including the addition of seven new rides. Perhaps the most famous- le Vampire- has riders traveling at more than 50 mph while "hanging" in the air. The park also has a standing roller coaster, as well as some more subdued rides for those not interested in puking their brains out.

Shopping

While Montr?al certainly has some good places to shop (Holt Renfrew is the notable standout for designer menswear), there isn't really one area where stores are concentrated in the same way that they are in the states. Some neighborhoods are certainly better than others, and no matter your interest or taste, you're bound to find something to bring home. The Village offers the classic mix of tacky rainbow-themed and/or too-tight t-shirts, sprinkled with the occasional designer duds. For more mainstream shopping, Sherbrooke Street and rue Sainte-Catherine are both good starting points.

No matter your interest or inclination, Montr?al has a lot to offer. Whether you're looking for a crazy weekend or a relaxing week, you'll find it here in the city that combines the best of both worlds.

If you happen to have an extra few days, you might also consider a side-trip to Qu?bec City, or the surrounding region. I'll be back in a few weeks with the scoop on that trip- for now, get planning!

When you go to Montr?al:

Boris Bistro: www.borisbistro.com

Le Centre Sheraton: www.sheratncom/lecentre

Chateau Versailles: www.versailleshotels.com

Fairmont le Reine Elizabeth: www.fairmont.com

International Flora Montr?al: www.floraMontr?al.ca

La Ronde: www.laronde.com

Saute Moutons: www.jetboatingMontr?al.com

Schwartz's Deli: www.schwartzsdeli.com