September 5, 2014
Dining at London's Centenarian Hotels
Daniel Scheffler READ TIME: 5 MIN.
Deciding where to eat in London is ever difficult. Options can be utterly broad as well acutely specific and niche - and the very act of dining sometimes scrutinized in the most British of ways. For some restaurants, heritage is the greatest appeal, with culinary lineage dating back well over 100 years. Though the d�cor and food offerings have changed with the times, London's Grande five centenarian hotels are certainly primed and buffed for a new era.
Brown's
London's first-ever hotel, Brown's opened in 1837 by combining 11 townhouses in the leafy neighborhood of Mayfair. This finest of addresses has been a favorite for more than 150 years, serving as the inspiration for Agatha Christie's "At Bertram's Hotel. "Graham Bell even made his first ever phone call from the property.
Recently the newly done restaurant, Hix, opened as a celebration of all things British. With some Tracey Emin and Bridget Riley artworks on the wall, the plates are equally interesting with Lee Streeton as chef and Mark Hix as Food Director. Think roast rack of Launceston lamb with Scottish girolles and curly kale and Cranachan with Wye Valley raspberries as the denouement.
Brown's
Albemarle Street, London, W1S 4BP.
The Goring
This glamour hotel famously opened in 1910 as the first in the world that boasted with bedrooms that were "en-suite." Since the founder, Otto Richard Goring, opened the hotel it has remained in the family over four generations now - continuing the bastion of old English quality.
For the first time in over a decade the hotel has appointed a new chef in the Dining Room, Shay Cooper, who is the youngest Michelin star holder in the city. The signature dish, a Lobster Omelet, is now starring as a main course and is accompanied by chips in duck fat. For lovers of the trolley, a leg of lamb, suckling pig and roasted beef are the favorites as you sit in the high ceilinged hall with sash windows and simple white tablecloths.
The Goring
15 Beeston Pl, London SW1W 0JW
The Savoy
Tucked away on the banks of the Thames is the Fairmont managed hotel, the Savoy - a staple of the English royalty. Originally opened in 1889 the hotel prides itself on unashamedly celebrating old school charm.
The Savoy Grill, frequented by Sir Winston Churchill, Frank Sinatra and even Oscar Wilde, was redesigned by Russell Sage who has restored it to its 1920s elegance. Head Chef Andy Cook introduces a menu of classic Escoffier-inspiration - charcoal grilled Chateaubriand with pomme souffl�s followed by King crab and rounded off by iced Peach Melba. For something special, consider the Chef's Table in the heart of the kitchen.
The Savoy
Strand, Savoy Way, London WC2R 0EU
Claridge's
What started as a purchase of a tiny townhouse in Mayfair in 1854 eventually became an ambitious expansion in the next few years to create the masterpiece hotel called Claridge's. The hotel (often frequented by royalty) has gone through a multitude of restorations and now features Art Deco flair with five-star amenities.
The latest restaurant to open at the hotel is Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan's Fera. Here on offer are Fresh curds and watercress, pickled kohlrabi, tan tan lettuce and cobnuts to start and Chick 'O' Hake with sweet corn, white crabmeat, leeks and English verjus as a main course. A seasonal cocktail that mixes a hen's egg with honey, ash and bourbon brings a bit of craft cocktail culture to the historical property.
Claridge's
49 Brook Street, London W1K 4HR
The Ritz
The glitterati of the world have all come together at one address on the planet and that has always been The Ritz. Since 1906, the hotel (conceived by renowned hotelier C�sar Ritz) has with its appointment to the Prince of Wales and royal connections, served as the ultimate in luxury accommodations.
The fare, called "palace style" and popularized by Escoffier, is eternalized by Executive Chef John Williams MBE. The menus range from classic French dishes to modern interpretations of British fare. Expect lobster and game birds and even Welsh lamb. A four-course dinner is offered on weekends. Be prepared for formal dress code and a live band - a welcomed throwback to the luxury of a bygone era.
The Ritz
150 Piccadilly, London W1J 9BR
Based between New York and Cape Town, Daniel Scheffler writes about socio political and travel matters and is working on a memoir. Follow him on Twitter @danielscheffler.